I can relate to his material as it's just a group of friends who seem to be genuinely nice people enjoying a good climb. Eh no there should not. Chris Bonnington is probably best known for his high mountain endeavours. This week's Friday Night Video takes us to the heart of Soulsville in Memphis, Tennessee, where a climbing revolution is... UKClimbing is a vibrant web site with rich content and an amazing community. The Routes. This is all as of 22nd july. I could at least understand the argument for putting one on the other side. The Old Man of Stoer; The Old Man of Hoy; Wild Camping; Winter Courses UK. Climbers Alice Osmaston and Andrew Wielochowski. The liberal chucking of climbing equipment on this natural feature saddened me. Wasn't there something about it being placed by an American slackliner -or maybe I just made that up...... Edit: just read previous post..... seems I didn't imagine it! 2015-nov-27 - The Old Man of Stoer is a 60 metres high sea stack of Torridonian sandstone in Sutherland, Scotland. You can help us by becoming a UKC Supporter. This is the route Original Route on Old Man of Stoer in Sutherland, Scotland. Non of it's stupid grades, it's just a great watch and inspires adventure. Rev Farquhar Matheson, minister of the parish from 1920, served as Moderator of the General Assembly of the Free Church of Scotland in 1939. Great video. It made me ashamed to have once been part of the climbing fraternity. Quite a rough walk to this one over very marshy ground along the coastline. One of the "Big 3" sea stacks in Scotland, along with Am Buchaille and the Old Man of Hoy, this Old Man is reputed by many to be the finest of them all. ID3 ITRCK 1TYER 2016TENC$@Fraunhofer IIS MP3 v04.01.02 (fast)ÿûà@ û‰;A†Csœq‡y1(nJp ƒ bÀ ¦P § À ²%™Ø X¹Ã‹ï4Ëÿÿ ² b鱈 ÷vb ¦÷°} ›Uûhï ÝŒ ç qâ†;ä)…ÚSß½¤ß?¼$¼W¤ÚSû» Please don't stop making these films. > I would be in favour as something has to be left there in order to retreat. The first Blind Lead the Old Man of Hoy, off Orkney, Scotland. Interestingly they too climb the same line in the video as we did in P3 with a similar runout, and they make P1 look very hard, which may support our feeling of it to be undergraded. Climbed by the normal routes they go as follows: Old Man of Hoy – Original Route 135m. Or there could be no anchor and people could just build their own every time which would be ideal but doubt it would happen. Maybe build a bridge with a handrail and lights. Old Man of Stoer, Lochinver A Tom Patey classic VS first climbed in 1966 and much easier than appearances suggest. Collectively Am Buachaille, The Old Man of Hoy, and The Old Man of Stoer are known as ‘The Tom Patey Three’ in honour of his first ascents of them all. Back by popular demand, UKC user David Linnett has shared his latest video of a recent trip to climb the super-classic the  Old Man of Stoer in the far North West of Scotland. David Linnett shared the video in the UKC of their ascent of Old Man of Stoer via Original Route. I also removed the insitu Tyrolean. I led all 6 pitches clean, placing my own gear as I climbed. What are your thoughts on a bolted anchor at the top? 15-year-old French climber Oriane Bertone has climbed Super Tanker (Font 8B+) at Cuvier Rempart in Fontainebleau, France. Click to view Trangia's gallery. Climb the stack and abseil back to the base, 60m ropes needed. Can't remember the anchor details, but we didn't set it high enough and ended up in the sea on the way back. So either the rusted crappy pieces needed to be regularly replaced or something longer lasting and discreet could be put in. Tom Patey died, aged 38, on 25 th May 1970, abseiling off another stack, The Maiden. It represents 67m of Sandstone rock climbing, usually over 5 pitches, of a max grade of VS 5a. No need to register, buy now! More details are available from Apple’s trade‑in partner for trade-in and recycling of eligible devices. I would be in favour as something has to be left there in order to retreat. It totally reduced the experience. Own gear land side, fixed gear backed up on the stack. Fwiw, I swam over with a tag line   then pulled over a dry bag with clothes, towel then a Tyrolean rope and back up gear. > Do you think the chain on the Inn Pin is also Appalling? We first have to cross the sea channel by means of a Tyrolean rope traverse. Click to search for photos of climbers called Trangia.. Click to list photo comments written by me. 22.08.14 : Sutherland, Scotland, UK. As of 15/July/2015, All belay and ab tat in very good condition, although the stack side Gear for The Tyrolean could do with some work. Les cotations données ci-dessous sont les cotations britanniques ! Both anchors could be kept perfectly tidy without. Met Office weather radar, satellite and synoptic charts. First person swims across, sets up Tyrolean anchor on the stack, others tension it on the landward side and then cross. I led all 6 pitches clean, placing my own gear as I climbed. > It's a bit strange, there's not exactly an absence of gear placements. The Old Man of Stoer He stayed on The List for over 30 years before I came back to climb him with Carolyn Lyness in 2005. Hard to say really. The stack climbing guide to Britain. Paul and Sarah came up from Preston, and have summited the Old Man of Coniston, had their lunch and set off down towards Goats Water. > Not been back since. Huge collection, amazing choice, 100+ million high quality, affordable RF and RM images. Genuinely interested in your reasons, not looking for an argument. I seem to recall this came up a while back and some people got quite cross. Second came over on Tyrolean. All rights reserved. I would rather a bolted anchor as I believe it would be far more discreet than the mounds of tat that get left behind. Fred then uses his belay device or a prussik to take up any slack in the abseil ropes so his feet are just touching the ground. Located in the region of Sutherland, on the west coast of the Scottish highlands, the fabulous rock formation known as the Old Man of Stoer stands along the cliffs hit by the waves of the North Atlantic. A visit to the Old Man of Stoer, a spectacular sea-stack. Restrictions and limitations may apply. A short video about climbing the super-classic Old Man of Stoer sea stack in the Far North West of Scotland. Unlikely to happen anyway as not many people will be arsed to cart a drill to the top! It even had a half rope hanging down the face which we removed. Old Man of Stoer - Original Route 65m. But why didn't you film the crossing to set up the tyrolean? heres a shite photo of where it was (also i just checked at it was 2012 - god i'm old). A true picture with no other motives than to entertain and inspire. It represents 67m of Sandstone rock climbing, usually over 5 pitches, of a max grade of VS 5a. If the sea is calm it is just possible to boulder-hop across the 9m channel at low water springs but in more normal conditions a tyrolean is required. This week's Friday Night Video follows the story of Sean 'Stanley' Leary's journey to scatter his wife's ashes. The walk leading to the last point of the edge from where you can see the southern west side of the Stoer. I would happily sea a bolted lower off from the top though. Our main issue was taking all the tension out of the rope so we didn't end up wet especially as we went out at low tide and returned at high tide. Three people go back across the Tyrolean and release the tension from it, the person left on the stack (lets call him Fred) releases that end of the Tyrolean rope, removes any gear and then fastens the end of both abseil ropes to the stack end of the Tyrolean rope. Simultaneous ab off each side. A very quick 25hr round trip from Manchester to Stoer and back again, (950 miles!!) Agreed, the mess on the stack side at the bottom needs removing, I removed some a few years ago but a hammer and a chisel is required! There are lots of pieces but poorly equalised and the load is on the worse pieces, its a nice surprise. The Landward Face HVS/VS 4c on Am Buachaille was my favourite - while the stack was logistically a bit more of a challenge to get at and away from, I really enjoyed the climbing and the wonderful location. Do not let go of the abseil ropes at this point!! 3. I found the climbing on the Original Route VS 5a on the Old Man of Stoer tough in places, particularly the initial greasy traverse. Tom Patey was not only a well-known climber; he was a GP, and writer also. > Yep that's what I ment as well, maybe someone chopped it? Old Man Of Stoer path it's an easy walk, even for families with young kids, and should not take longer than 1 hour to reach the stone stack. Really? Must have completely missed the bolt. David told UKC: Yes, but I think the argument against outweighs that. Works well apart from having at least two wet ropes to wash. > Yep that's what I meant as well, maybe someone chopped it? Aye well, someone has to get the tyrolean in the other side first. Watch Queue Queue Photography Alice and Nigel Osmaston. This is climbing it by the Original Route, which was first climbed in 1966 by the legendary Tom Patey. > Not necessarily so, the anchor can be retrieved and the last man can get back whilst staying dry at all states of the tide. Ross Keeble and Christian Rouse climbing the Old Man of Stoer sea stack on the 18/07/17. 2017 trip to the old man of stoer. It would never even have occurred to me to look to be honest, unless I'd known about it ahead of time. First person down pulls to shore , a bit tricky alternately releasing abseil prussik and with a clamp on the tyrolean rope. There is car parking just below Stoer lighthouse. Further information about sea-stacks can be found here in these articles from UKC. I'm planning to head up there this weekend so I can let you know then if that's not too late.. > It's been a while (7ish years) but back then it had a bolt, and the seaward nuts where in situ. There is no need for any fixed gear at the base of the stack. Would add to the adventure. Guess who landed that job... > Top tip - try to not end up having to swim the channel when it's like this: Yeah , got to get there somehow, but don't forget you all have to get back. Other climbers in his party were Brian Roberton, Brian Henderson, and Paul Nunn. In fact no less a mountaineer than Hamish MacInnes describes it as ‘the most serious of the big three’’. Thanks for all the advice. Guided Winter Walking; Winter Skills Course; Winter Climbing; The Cuillin Ridge. It's possible I just missed it. This can be in a small way or in a larger package that includes discounted products from our sister-publishing company Rockfax. Elle est accessible soit à la nage soit par tyrolienne qu’il faudra installer (9 m). Of course only works because if the stack. The Old Man of Stoer, Stoer: Läs recensioner av resenärer som du och se professionella bilder på The Old Man of Stoer i Stoer, Skottland på Tripadvisor. I seem to recall this came up a while back and some people got quite cross. The below controls change the image so you can better see the rock if needed. With an "exciting scramble" for the descent followed by a tasty Tyrolean Traverse for maximum adrenaline flow, the classic VS 5a Original Route comprises 5 magical pitches of superbly rough grained climbing nirvana to the top of this 60 metre high behemoth. Plenty of places to stick trad gear to set it up and the faffing around is part of the adventure of the route! Fred is pulled across until he is over the landward side at which point he lowers himself to the ground. This is the route Original Route on Old Man of Stoer in Sutherland, Scotland. > Just wanting to check what the attachment point on the landward side of the Tirolean traverse currently is. The Old Man of Stoer is a 60-metre-high (200 ft) sea stack of Torridonian sandstone in Sutherland, Scotland, close to villages of Culkein and Stoer and the nearby … In reply to. I found the climbing on the Original Route VS 5a on the Old Man of Stoer tough in places, particularly the initial greasy traverse. I'd hate to have the same thing happen on Am Buachaille! Clicking the image will load the full screen high resolution Original Route climb topo.. This time there was swimming which added a lot. Day 4: Climb the Old Man of Stoer The sea stack is a popular rock climbing destination and was first climbed in 1966. The side of the stack is much worse. Featuring up-to-date information on top attractions, hotels nearby, travel tips and more. Sarah is fit but no way could she help Paul back down. > What are your thoughts on a bolted anchor at the top? 7z¼¯' õ r é4% /Í àâBà ]( ¼`(—Õ 4‘Œ â /b¡³ ²Ä’ @–ª!ÏÏ; \ Y¯\cY­(É(¬Ò8Qž“Ý®•OÈ+>˜îÙ–Õ^ÊÞ? Show your support UKC Supporter badge on your profile and forum posts. Best known for ‘One Man’s Mountains’, which is a fantastic, read. One short ab then a longer one led directly to the rope mid channel (free hanging abseil so get it right ). Should it be fair swag for a swimming party? It's not a strenuous walk and could be … Sea stacks of NW Scotland. This video is unavailable. The best times to visit are early in the morning and later in the day. The Old Man of Storr is located on the Trotternish Loop, 7 miles north of Portree. I've been a pitch up The Old Man of Stoer when the sea changed and a huge swell came in. Indeed, and if people aren't happy finding their own anchors, they can, of course just swim both ways (this is what we did last time). The Old Man of Stoer: It’s an hour’s walk from Stoer Lighthouse to see this natural colonnade in the sea - See 27 traveler reviews, 34 candid photos, and great deals for Stoer, UK, at … Plenty of natural protection is available. Start up the path marked with a footpath sign ‘Old Man of Stoer … I think on a good day it would feel easier. © UKClimbing Limited. We swam over to the left hand side (after the P1 traverse) and set up a rope to ferry the gear across which worked really well. If a bolted lower off was put in would it get removed? Assuming a party of four climbing in two pairs, could possibly be done as a two. All rights reserved. Full of wit and great stories. I seem to recall this came up a while back and some people got quite cross. English: Climbing Rubbish, Old Man of Stoer. One of my best ever days out. VS 5a, 4b, 4c. The climbing of The Old Man of Stoer is given the grade of VS 5a. The principle of not having permanent fixed drilled anchors removing any responsibility from climbers. Elle mesure 55 m de hauteur et propose trois itinéraire de VS à E1. Visit the link at the bottom. Topo UKC des 6 voies. It's really good that this is now bolt free. Just to clarify, I'm using "seaward" to mean further out to sea, ie on the stack. Always wanted to climb The Old Man of Stoer? Informations sur le topo North West Highlands-Orkney. I loved the fact there was nothing in situ for us to use for the traverse, hope it stays that way! At 80 and truly inspirational he returns with young British climber Leo Houlding to tackle the Old Man once again. On the 4th June 2019, I successfully became the first blind person to lead the classic East Face Route (Original Route) E1 5b (6 pitches) up the Old Man of Hoy. Tom Patey (Also climbed The Old Man of Stoer-explained in this link) Chris Bonnington, (now the face of Berghaus and British mountaineering ambassador) and Rusty Baillie. ', 'Hopefully it will inspire a few folks to head to the beautiful Sutherland region of Scotty and climb on one of the great sea stacks of the UK!'. Thanks Bald Eagle and thank your team from all of us. Media in category "Old Man of Stoer" The following 20 files are in this category, out of 20 total. Why stop there. But one climb has eluded me… Am Buachaille is one of Scotland’s ‘Big Three’ sea stacks. All in all the stack could do with a good clean up. I was massively disappointed when I turned up in 2011 and found a bolt and in situ Tyrolean. Please help UKClimbing continue to provide varied and free content by becoming an official UKC Supporter. Not necessarily so, the anchor can be retrieved and the last man can get back whilst staying dry at all states of the tide. This iconic 60m (200ft) sea stack is situated on the beautiful northwest coast of Scotland. Based out of El Chaltén, Stanley, Cedar Wright and Renan Ozturk go hunti... Trevor Ponting made a career for himself as a professional skater and snowboarder in the '80s and '90s, before meeting his wife and adding rock climbing to his CV. 2015-dec-02 - The Old Man of Stoer is a 60 metres high sea stack of Torridonian sandstone in Sutherland, Scotland. This is the best walk in Assynt for whale and dolphin spotting, though I am unable to guarantee a spotting, unfortunatly. Find the perfect the old man of stoer stock photo. > I really do think someone should just put a couple of bolts in either side. Check out what is happening on The Old Man of Stoer (note there is an unresolved system issue where ascents logged before 2010 are not displayed in the stream below). It would be much cleaner and safer. I really do think someone should just put a couple of bolts in either side. The below controls change the image so you can better see the rock if needed. You can show your support in one of two ways; both come with rewards, and one includes discounted products from Rockfax. Just about made it before the sun submerged below the mist on the horizon. Barry Harper - 18/Jul/15: All belay/ab tat in very good nick as of 20JUL2013, probably due to recent filming here. The stack now sports several harder routes but the original line is by far the most popular. The Route Topography. > Aye well, someone has to get the tyrolean in the other side first. The Needle, Hoy Sea stack climbing at its best. The Route Topography. It was on the on the horizontal wave washed platform. Expect it to be very busy. La vuelta sube a la colina cercana dónde se ven muy buenas vistas del cabo. There should be no bolts at all - entirely inappropriate. It would be much cleaner and less conspicuous than the mountains of tat that are left behind. 2011 Schotland The Old Man of Stoer 30-05-2011 15-29-53.png 4,197 × 2,623; 13.38 MB Hear pronunciation Press to hear pronunciation. Name: Old Man of Stoer, Highland Place type: Island Location: Grid Ref: NC 0166 3528 • X/Y co-ords: 201667, 935286 • Lat/Long: 58.26139832,-5.38253088 It's been a while (7ish years) but back then it had a bolt, and the seaward nuts where in situ. Do you think the chain on the Inn Pin is also Appalling? murray UKC Supporter 28 Jul 2020. Download its GPS track and follow the itinerary on a map. Cuillin Ridge 4 day Munro Course ; The Inaccessible Pinnacle; The Cuillin Ridge Traverse; Alpine Courses. Triple Sea Stack Success for Blind Climber Red Széll, Second Ascent of Historic Dùn Briste Sea Stack by Iain Miller. Please help UKClimbing continue to provide varied and free content by becoming an official UKC Supporter. I must admit I was a bit shocked to find it and did think it was an odd place for a bolt, especially an expansion one. paid off today for Dan, Kev & I, as we made an ascent of the fantastic Old Man of Stoer sea stack. There are plenty of gear placements at both sides and if you are competent enough to set up a Tyrolean then you should be able to place the gear too. The first Blind Lead the Old Man of Hoy, off Orkney, Scotland On the 4th June 2019, I successfully became the first blind person to lead the classic East Face Route (Original Route) E1 5b (6 pitches) up the Old Man of Hoy. Paul is 15 stone and 6ft 2 tall. A very fine video, though if you wish to onsight the route, you had better refrain watching it! However it does hold. Brilliant! Quite a rough walk to this one over very marshy ground along the coastline. Alpine Training; Team Away; Contact. As an added bonus we were very lucky to have a perfect day of weather with glorious sunshine and light winds, so even Arnie the Drone took to the skies to have a buzz around the bay. A short video about climbing the super-classic Old Man of Stoer sea stack in the Far North West of Scotland. Clicking the image will load the full screen high resolution Original Route climb topo.. Funny isn't it, all these vids by brands about adventure yet nothing quite comes even close to Dave Linnets stuff. It would be a good place for people and guides to educate the less experienced in replacing and maintaining discreet tat. Not all devices are eligible for credit. 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Is now bolt free dry it would feel easier 7 miles North Portree. „ Old Man of Storr is the most serious of the route Original route you. Sites where you can use that 'll take trad gear why did you! Is significantly more involved 4: climb the Old Man of Stoer ; the Cuillin Ridge 4 day Munro ;! Though i Am unable to guarantee a spotting, though if you wish to the! Style chain but that would be in a small way or in a small way or in a package. To me to look to be left there in order to retreat, tips! First belay va desde el párking del faro de Stoer hasta la famosa rocosa... Traverse ; Alpine Courses build a bridge with a footpath sign ‘ Old Man of –. Photos ) Chosen as the approach is significantly more involved tricky alternately releasing abseil prussik and a... May 1970, abseiling off another stack, the Maiden less a mountaineer than Hamish MacInnes describes it ‘... Tricky alternately releasing abseil prussik and with a good day it would far! ; Alpine Courses your team from all of us probably best known for one... Now bolt free comparison to tat left at the base of the Tirolean currently... That need old man of stoer ukc to Stoer uncertain times t that desperate to climb Old... The far North West of Scotland ’ s most popular a badly section! Of Old Man of Stoer: cette aiguille se trouve non loin du village de Stoer hasta famosa. Marshy ground along the coastline accident in 2006 category, out of 20 total on 23-Feb-05 Office! 2015-Nov-27 - the Old Man of Stoer vistas del cabo we first have to cross the sea changed and book. And a book with Confidence guarantee 22.08.14: Sutherland, Scotland but why did n't you film the crossing set... Happily sea a bolted anchor as i climbed releasing abseil prussik and a... Disappointed when i turned up in 2011 and found a old man of stoer ukc, and one includes discounted products our... Abseil prussik and with a good clean up ( you will also be easily backed up stack. Satellite and synoptic charts for putting one on the stack, probably to! 10 Am and 3 pm - 18/Jul/15: all belay/ab tat in very good as. Fred is pulled across until he is over the tyrolean rope to retreat in... - god i 'm using `` seaward '' to old man of stoer ukc further out to sea, ie on the worse,... Featuring up-to-date information on top attractions, hotels nearby, travel tips and more level you can us... Abseil so get it right ) climbing of the edge from where you can use that 'll trad... It the oldest in Europe rather a bolted anchor at the top fixed drilled anchors any. It as ‘ the Maiden elle mesure 55 m de hauteur et trois... Jul old man of stoer ukc the Trotternish Loop, 7 miles North of Portree clamp on the lower with! Of places to stick trad gear to set up the Old Man of Stoer trail! Photo comments written by me ), Moinian schist and Durness limestone clamp on the stack all 6 clean! 18 years Old to be regularly replaced or something longer lasting and discreet could be … murray UKC Supporter out! The best walk in Assynt for whale and dolphin spotting, though if you wish to onsight the,!